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"Lyons Training 101"

Keith Hosman, Certified Trainer
Horsemanship101.com
October 2007
, Issue 15

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Squashing Resistance

Welcome to the October 2007 issue of "Lyons Training 101," written by John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman.

How do you make the average horse a million times better the easy way? This month I explain in detail something that works great for me. It's fun and keeps you safer in the saddle. This article is especially for:

- young and green horses
- head-shy horses
- horses with "necks like concrete"
- improving respect and trust issues

You'll find the article sampled below. To read it in its entirety, simply follow the link provided. If the links don't work or you're not getting our emails properly, scroll to the bottom of this page.

And remember, prior issues can be found 24/7 at Horsemanship101.com/Articles. Most can be printed out and saved for easy access later.

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Jump directly to the article: The First Thing I Do

 

The First Thing I Do

What's the first thing I do when I meet a new horse? The same thing you should do with your horse today and everyday: Give them a "resistance test." If you have the typical horse – whether you'd call him a problem child or a horse with just "occasional challenges" – this is for you.

If you get one thing from reading this article, it should be this: Any resistance from your horse while he's hanging out, just standing next to you munching grass, will be many times worse when things get hairy. If it takes one pound of pressure today to get him leading (away from that grass), it'll take one hundred when he gets spooked on the trail.

You have to ferret out those "one pound moments" and eradicate them like weeds. They're seeds that can grow into major disasters very quickly on the trail. If your horse "only freaks out once or twice a year but is otherwise great" – then you're fooling yourself. You're overlooking slip ups from your horse, perhaps on a daily basis, that will sooner or later get you hurt. Remember, accidents are by their very nature "things we don't expect."

If your horse went ballistic out on the trail last week... it didn't "just happen out of the blue." He's been telling you for weeks or months that he was going to lose it when enough pressure was applied every time he resisted (however slightly) the pull from your lead rope or reins.

If he walks ahead of you while you lead him, he's telling you that sooner or later he'll blow past you as you go through a gate or knock you on your kiester with his shoulder when something scares him bad enough.

If the muscles in his neck bulge toward you instead of relaxing when you put the bit in his mouth, he's telling you that he'll do mach sixty when he gets spooked on the trail.

Deal with these situations by doing two things: First establish a zero-tolerance policy; nip bad behavior in the bud the instant it happens. Example: If your horse inches past you as you lead, do an about-face and back that horse up. Keep him moving till he quits pushing back. (If he freezes pull on his head to pull his butt away from you. Getting those feet "unstuck" will allow you to keep backing till he lightens up.) Be adamant....

keep reading this article

 

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"Snaffle Bits: Their Use in Controlling Your Speed "

"The snaffle bit is the tool you'll use to do this training most effectively. The reason is simple: The very nature of a shanked or leverage bit causes the horse to stiffen his body from nose to tail. Think of a baseball bat. Rigid and unyielding, right? Shank bits cause our horse to stiffen their bodies in the same way — making training as we've described very difficult because it causes the horse to line up all the bones in his body, one behind the other. He then uses his entire "skeletal structure" to brace against our requests. Why not make this training business a thousand times simpler by using a bit that encourages our horse to stay soft? Snaffle bits enable us to soften one part of the horse at a time; they get your horse to "unlock up" and to move more fluidly.

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