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"Lyons Training 101"

Keith Hosman, Certified Trainer
Horsemanship101.com
September 2007
, Issue 14


R-E-S-P-E-C-T

If this newsletter looks odd or the links don't work, go to this page: Horsemanship101.com/Newsletter and scroll down to Issue Number 14.

Welcome to the September 2007 issue of "Lyons Training 101," written by John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman.

This month we tackle biting - one of the most common horse vices and the most dangerous.

You'll find the article sampled below. To read it in its entirety, simply follow the link provided. If the links don't work or you're not getting our emails properly, scroll to the bottom of this page.

And remember, prior issues can be found 24/7 at Horsemanship101.com/Articles. Most can be printed out and saved for easy access later.

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Jump directly to the article: Biting Horses

 

How to Fix a Biting Horse

Did your horse tell you today that he's going to bite you next week? Will you bet your finger on that? Or your daughter's arm? Do you even know the signals? When you cinch up your horse and he pins his ears or you ask him to move away and he "purses up" his lips like he's mad, he's sending you a message. The message is simple and it's one of two things. It's either "I am the boss. Who are you, mortal, to ask me to do a dang thing?" or "I'm planning on taking over; expect a coup next Thursday."

Biting is the single-most dangerous vice your horse can have. It's more dangerous than bucking, than rearing, kicking - or anything else you can name. A horse can take off a finger, an ear or objects I can't mention in this article in an instant. If your horse has developed that habit (or you fear that it might be about to), then nip it in the bud. Establish a tough zero tolerance policy and act aggressively.

But if your horse drops an ear – is he firing a first shot or flicking a fly? Should we haul off and belt him regardless, just to be sure?

How do you know the difference between a threat and an innocent stance? As you would expect, it's just common sense. A horse that's copping a bad attitude will couple his pinned ears with other facial features or body language that anyone (or thing) would recognize as a warning. Just look at the horse's features as a whole and simply ask yourself if you've been "dissed." Does he look mad, freeze up or otherwise look irritated? What's the little voice in your head say? Did you have any doubt the last time your mother got mad at you? Same thing.

But what about "mild irritation" vs all-out anger? Again, do we belt him either way "just in case"?

The answer is that when your horse disrespects you in any way, he's taken the first step toward his own little revolution. Act accordingly. Nature has programmed every horse to expect someone/thing to be a leader. Some horses want to be the boss, others accept the job begrudgingly – but all horses expect a leader to exist. If you act the role of subordinate the horse will view that as a call to take over.

Whether your horse already bites or has just signaled that he plans on starting, we need to establish a zero tolerance policy to squash the very thought. Of course, we can't read their minds, which leaves plenty of room for error. "Is he grouchy today or threatening to bite my head off?" "Did he just give me the evil eye - or simply twitch his ear?" If he bites you and takes a thumb with it, we've got a pretty good idea that he "did bite me." But guessing calls for mistakes while reacting to the horse biting (or near missing) puts us in the position of being reactive as opposed to active. In a horse's world being reactive marks you as second banana. Where does that put you, then, when you approach a horse with a reputation for biting and you move around him, "just waiting for it to happen," deflecting the horse's every move "just in case"? Answer: It makes you the banana...

keep reading this article

 

Stop Bucking!

"Stop Bucking" a study course by Keith Hosman

- Print out in two minutes, be training in five
- Goals, theory, homework
- Five days, $4.99

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Does Your Horse Move Too Fast Or Too Slow?

Our Online Study

course "Speed Control" is available now - at zero cost

Here's a sample from Day Two:
"Snaffle Bits: Their Use in Controlling Your Speed "

"The snaffle bit is the tool you'll use to do this training most effectively. The reason is simple: The very nature of a shanked or leverage bit causes the horse to stiffen his body from nose to tail. Think of a baseball bat. Rigid and unyielding, right? Shank bits cause our horse to stiffen their bodies in the same way — making training as we've described very difficult because it causes the horse to line up all the bones in his body, one behind the other. He then uses his entire "skeletal structure" to brace against our requests. Why not make this training business a thousand times simpler by using a bit that encourages our horse to stay soft? Snaffle bits enable us to soften one part of the horse at a time; they get your horse to "unlock up" and to move more fluidly.

Now, some of you are saying to yourselves "My horse won't go in a snaffle bit" for whatever reason. You're thinking things like "My horse has to go in a side pull otherwise he whips his head around because he just doesn't like snaffle bits;" or "His last owner smacked his teeth with the bit every day for years;" or "I need the shank for control" ... etc.

Alright, first: Do not do anything that we or anyone suggests if you think it's asking too much or putting you in a bad situation. If you feel that you need a particular bit for control, do what you think is best. However, if that's the case, you would do well to find a professional trainer to work with — because it's not fair to your horse to ask it to soften as we describe in these pages when you've got sixty pounds of hardware on his head and he's looking like Hannibal the Cannibal...."

To sign up for this five-day course, visit this page.



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