Buying / Selling Horses

   
       
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Sample Our Newsletter
"The First Thing I Do," from my FREE monthly newsletter

From the Starting a Young Horse Series:

"If your horse went ballistic out on the trail last week... it didn't "just happen out of the blue." He's been telling you for weeks or months that he was going to lose it when enough pressure was applied every time he resisted (however slightly) the pull from your lead rope or reins.

If he walks ahead of you while you lead him, he's telling you that sooner or later he'll blow past you as you go through a gate or knock you on your kiester with his shoulder when something scares him bad enough.

If the muscles in his neck bulge toward you instead of relaxing when you put the bit in his mouth, he's telling you that he'll do mach sixty when he gets spooked on the trail.

Deal with these situations by doing two things: First establish a zero-tolerance policy; nip bad behavior in the bud the instant it happens. Example: If your horse inches past you as you lead, do an about-face and back that horse up. Keep him moving till he quits pushing back. (If he freezes pull on his head to pull his butt away from you. Getting those feet "unstuck" will allow you to keep backing till he lightens up.) Be adamant.

Second, get proactive. The first thing I do with any horse – and what I do each and everyday with all five of my own horses – is to see exactly where they stand when it comes to "resistance." Luckily the test and remedy are fun.

And having fun with this is a key point. Realize that every horse has resistance tucked away somewhere. Like an Easter egg, your job is to discover it. Instead of chocolate, your reward is a safer, more pleasant ride. The calmest, coolest, bestest trained horse you have ever seen has a little pocket of resistance hidden somewhere."

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From John Lyons Trainer Keith Hosman

 
 

Round Pen First Steps
A Downloadable Book

A sample from Day 1:

"Begin this next portion by picturing something: Imagine throwing a rope over your horse's withers. The rope runs perpendicular to the length of the horse's body, forming a "t." If you walk toward your horse from behind this rope (as it lies across the withers), you'll be applying pressure to his hips, pushing him/them either forward or away. If you approach the horse from in front of the withers (the other side of our imaginary rope), your body language will be pushing the front half away from you. (Walk towards the head to push it; walk towards the shoulders to push them.) Likewise, retreating from the shoulder in a similar manner will help "draw" the shoulder towards you. You will always want to be one side of that line or the other – which side simply depends on the task at hand."

- Print out from home
- 5 Days, 5 chapters
- Learn at your own pace

Just $5.99

For more info:
this course | all courses

Available Downloads:
"Stop Bucking"
"Rein/Speed" (for Nervous Horse Owners)
"Round Pen First Steps"
"Trailer Training"

 

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"Pictures Sell or Do Not Sell Horses"
By Bonnie Martin

In this day of internet commerce, many people buy and sell horses sight unseen. I have done both several times with success. But have you ever wondered why that wonderful horse you have advertised hasn’t sold even after you sent photos or video to prospective buyers? You know he or she is a great horse. You’ve seen him out in the pasture strutting his stuff. You know he handles well, has correct conformation, good legs and feet, and a wonderful disposition. If it’s a riding horse, you know that he can and will do whatever is expected without fuss and in a stylish way. In addition, he positively gleams in the sunlight when he is clean. To top it off, you have him priced reasonably.

Why, then isn’t the buyer jumping to get him? Well, it may not be the horse’s fault. The problem may just lie in the photos or video you are sending to represent this wonderful animal. Don’t send something you feel a need ahead of time to apologize for. Spend a little more time and effort to get quality samples of what you have to sell. Start off with a groomed horse. No one really wants to see nitty gritty wads of dirt,green manure stains, tangled manes, and unkempt horses. Bathe your horse, or at least brush to a shine. Coat conditioner will help tame the mane and tail. White markings should be really white so they will show up.

If possible, photograph or video during the fall or late spring when coats look their best, but, especially on young stock which is growing and changing so fast, you might be taking photos/video during their wooly stages. Granted, there may be lots of hair, but it should be clean and neat. Clipping feathers on the fetlocks makes the horse’s legs look more refined. The head shows up better and much prettier if the hair under the chin is trimmed and the jowl is defined. If there has been a bridlepath cut, it needs to be reclipped so it is not standing up like a mohawk.

Next consider where to take the photos/video. Yes, you’re trying to sell the horse, not your farm, but the background can say a lot about your horse’s care. Try to find a spot to shoot where there is not clutter or distracting items to compete for the viewer’s attention. You don’t need to have the horse being shown around equipment, feeders, round bales, etc.

For the best shots, try to find a contrasting background. A dark horse in front of a dark background is not going to show up very well, even with a color photo, whereas a grey would. In taking photos shoot lots of pictures. Most of them won’t turn out as well as you would hope. Get photos from the side with the horse standing on all four feet, looking alert. Get photos from both sides, from the front (don’t be too close or it will look like a giant head) and from the back to show those straight legs.

Getting the horse looking alert and not half asleep can be done by taking a trick from show photographers. They usually have something of interest that the horse will focus on. The point is not to scare them, but to get their attention–ears up, neck somewhat arched. A big mirror, feedbag, milk carton with pebbles in it, an umbrella, anything that they aren’t familiar with will do. This has the added advantage of getting them used to odd things.

With video, there is the opportunity to show what the horse can do and how he does it. Even young ones can do things like stand for haltering, lead willingly, perhaps stand tied or load in a trailer. Don’t forget to show those things as well as some of the animal moving out.

Horses under saddle should be shown being caught, groomed, saddled, and ridden. Hopefully, you will have worked your horse enough in the weeks beforehand and warmed him up sufficiently to get your best ride. If not, shoot it again the next day or the next. Don’t send a tape saying that he is really better than what the viewer will be seeing. Prove it.

If you have the equipment, take the time to do any video editing that might be needed to get rid of unattractive parts. Folks don’t need to see the ground when you forgot to turn the camera off and started walking, they don’t really need to see the horse proving that his bodily functions really work, or be made seasick in sections where the camera got wiggly. Cut those out. This also gives you a copy of the video to keep and not have to do all over again if someone else wants video before the first one, hopefully, is returned. (Be sure to label and put your address on the video if you hope to get it back.)

Yes, this takes some time and effort, but the payoff will come when the prospective buyer has a clear idea of your horse and knows what is being offered. Then it’s just a matter of whether the horse matches the buyer’s wants and needs. Without that good video or snapshot, the buyers might not realize that you did have exactly what was being sought and move on to someone else’s horses in their quest for the perfect horse for them.

 

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Horse Owning: Sell a Horse Online, advice for the horse owner provided by John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman

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