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Sample Our Newsletter
"Teach a Horse to Sidepass Toward You on the Ground," from my FREE monthly newsletter
From the Training Horse in Hand Series:
"Stand not in front of your horse and not to his left, but in the space in between, that is, sort of facing his left shoulder. This area keeps you safer (notice the "er") from back leg kicks or tramplings. DO NOT GET IN FRONT OF YOUR HORSE where a sudden lurch can get you flattened. That would certainly take the fun out of this. Raise the lunge whip in your right hand, as if a conductor sans orchestra, up above your horse's left hip.
Now, listen and listen carefully: You must, must, must, develop a pattern and a rhythm to that pattern. It keeps you proactive and it breaks things down for your horse. If you want the horse to ever read your body language and begin sidepassing toward you, then you must be consistent with your teaching. That means that if you begin by raising your hand, pausing, clucking, and tapping, then ten minutes later you're still following that flow and pattern. As I've said many times, they've been everybody's dinner for eons and they're très fab at reading body language. But they suck at reading minds. Always holding your hand in such and such position and clucking is a clear signal to the trained horse. Thinking "x" but asking your horse to comply with inconsistent signals simply confuses and aggravates the both of you. Well-trained horses seemingly read their owner's minds, but they're either reacting to small clues given to them by their rider's body language, or they're trying things that have gotten them a release in the past, one after the other until successful."
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From John Lyons Trainer Keith Hosman |
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Stop Bucking Study Course
A Downloadable Book
A sample from Day 1:
"Naturally, green horses and horses with a penchant for bucking are best started on the ground where you are safest. To that end, put a headstall, reins and snaffle bit on your horse. You don’t want to start this work using a halter. The signal to the horse isn’t as clear as from the bit and some horses who are especially out of control can drag you from here to there if they’re simply outfitted in a halter. You’ll also need a dressage whip.
Do this exercise with a friend - you’d be surprised what they can see from their vantage point. Their insight and honesty might speed you through this.
Flip the reins over the horse’s neck as if you’re going to ride. Stand on his left side, near his shoulder, facing him. Take the rein near his mouth just below the slobber strap so that your thumb is toward the rear of the horse. Raise the dressage whip in your right hand as if conducting the Philharmonic and kiss. If he doesn’t move (and he probably won’t at first), tap him on the rump. If he still doesn’t move, relax, you gotta start somewhere. You can tap a little harder, perhaps quicker in order to “kind of annoy” the horse. Don’t smack the horse unless you’re willing to chance a quick kick to your ribs. Trust me, you’d be amazed how high and far those back legs can reach." - Print out from home
- 5 Days, 5 chapters
- Learn at your own pace
Just $4.99
For more info:
this course | all courses
Available Downloads:
"Stop Bucking"
"Rein/Speed" (for Nervous Horse Owners)
"Round Pen First Steps"
"Trailer Training"
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GUEST AUTHOR ARTICLES
Horse Bits Information
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"An Education on the Horse Bit"
By Janine Carter
The "Bit" is a vital piece of equipment in the equine industry. The rider depends on the bit to keep control over his horse in whatever his job is, be it real cowboy work or in the show ring. The horse has to LIKE his bit. Lets go over all the equipment that goes with the bit and the different choices to make on bits.
* Purchase - The purchase is a part of the bit located above the mouthpiece. A shorter purchase will make the bit act quicker in a horse's mouth when pulling the reins by the rider. A long purchase will make the bit react with a slower action giving you a bit of play like in a car with more play in the steering wheel.
* Shank - The Shank is located below the mouthpiece and gives you leverage controlling the mouthpiece. In this case, the shorter the shank, the less control you will have, and the longer the shank the MORE control you have.
* Cheeks - The cheeks are the sides of the bit and includes both the "purchase" and the "shank".
* Mouthpiece - The mouthpiece is part of the bit that goes in the horse's mouth. There are several to choose from: Bars are the part of the mouthpiece that rests on the horse's bars, which is the gums behind a horses teeth. The Port is the piece that rests on the tongue. They come in high, medium and low. The closer together the bars, the more severe and the wider apart they are the less severe. A Mullen Relief is a forward curve to the mouthpiece and gives even pressure across the mouth which produces a smoother reaction from the horse.
The Snaffle is one of the most common mouthpieces. It is broken in the middle and is very comfortable to the horse. There is also a Three-piece Snaffle that is broken in two places which allows it to work on different places on the bars than the regular snaffle. The Double Twisted Wire Snaffle is made up of two small snaffles that are broken "off-center" from each other. The Chain Mouthpiece works on the corners of the mouth but do now work on the bars as a snaffle would. Any mouthpiece that is not broken is called a Solid Mouthpiece. A Swivel Mouthpiece is one that swivels on the shank. The swivel action gives the mouthpiece a different action than a solid constructed bit.
* Curb Bit - A curb mouthpiece is more severe than a snaffle. It places a rotation in the mouth pulling downward and then pulling up on the curb chain. It usually gives a great amount of pressure on the horses mouth and is meant to be used sparingly. There are different kinds of curb bit, some more harsh than others.
* Metal Used In Mouthpieces - Many riders like to use copper on their mouthpieces as it makes the horses mouth salivate which allows their mouths to stay soft and useable. Sweet Iron is a material that is intended to rust and gives off a somewhat sweet taste to the horse. Stainless Steel gives a clean neat look to any mouthpiece.
Hopefully the above information will give you some idea as to which Mouthpiece would be best for your use and will help when you go to a tack store looking for that perfect fit of horse and rider.
About the Author: This article was written by Janine Carter, owner of Posh Pampered Pets. If you have any questions regarding Horse Supplies or Posh Pampered Pets, please feel free to call 979-221-7251 or email info@poshpamperedpets.com.
Source: www.isnare.com
Permanent Link:
http://www.isnare.com/?aid=274465&ca=Pets
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Disclaimer: Equine training can be a hazardous activity which may subject the participants to possible serious injury. Keith Hosman, Josh Lyons, Patrick Benson, their associates and other trainers listed on this site will not assume any liability for your activities. Our newsletter, books and videos provide general information, instruction and techniques that may not be suitable for everyone. No warranty is given regarding the suitability of this information, the instructions, and techniques to you or other individuals acting under your instructions.
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Horse Owning: Horse Bits Information, advice for the horse owner provided by John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman
Bookmark horsemanship101.com for Horse-Keeping Tips
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