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Sample Our Newsletter
"Cinchy Horses," from my FREE monthly newsletter
From the Saddle Breaking a Horse Series:
"It certainly doesn't take them long to learn that a saddle on their backs means they're getting put to work pretty quick – so it's no wonder that so many bad habits develop along this point. They weren't born yesterday: You approaching with a smile on your face, a saddle in one hand and "Riding for Dummies" in the other can only mean one thing: Work. It's no wonder they begin channeling the advice they've heard from their buddies: "Dance around," "Act like you're gonna bite," "Don't let him put the bit in your mouth. You get a bit in your mouth and you're done for." And, they're always trying something new, aren't they? I'd finally worked one of my mares through – what I thought was every bad habit at saddling time – only to have her lay down on me. (I cured this by being the ready the next time: The moment her legs began to buckle I screamed like a stuck pig and got her moving... anywhere. Trust me, she didn't go back and tell the others to try laying down.)
You can only deal with these crazy things they try in one way – and that's by keeping your sense of humor. They're going to keep coming like the tides – and the moment you lose your temper, they've got ya. Know why? Because your horse is dancing around, saying to himself "This is the part where he gets nuts everyday and smacks me." You lose your temper, smack the horse and prove him right. Every day. You do get the saddle on, the bit in his mouth – but each time it gets more difficult. Like the boy with his finger in the dike, new holes keep popping up."
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From John Lyons Trainer Keith Hosman |
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Stop Bucking Study Course
A Downloadable Book
A sample from Day 1:
"Do the exercise as described above on the left side then release the reins, move to the front of the horse and pause to pet him (very important). Then move to the right side and repeat. Move back and forth between each side of the horse after each repetition. You’ll find the horse more agreeable on one side than the other. Stick with it; the “flexibility” evens out.
Always release as soon as possible - but if your horse wants to rock back toward the end of this movement (sort of pulling on your arm) then keep the pressure and immediately get him moving forward and around again - as if to say “You didn’t do it right so you’re going to keep moving.” Don’t, whatever you do, give the horse a chance to “park” himself there, pulling back on the bit. That will haunt you later." - Print out from home
- 5 Days, 5 chapters
- Learn at your own pace
Just $4.99
For more info:
this course | all courses
Available Downloads:
"Stop Bucking"
"Rein/Speed" (for Nervous Horse Owners)
"Round Pen First Steps"
"Trailer Training"
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GUEST AUTHOR ARTICLES
Deworming Your Horse
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Find this article faster next time:
"Horse Wormers - Too Much Of A Good Thing?"
By Mark Andrews
How can you tell which deworming program is right for you? Following a traditional plan may mean that you are worming your horse too often. Does that matter? Well, apart from spending more than you need to, you also run the risk of the worms becoming resistant to the wormers.
Anthelmintic resistance is being recognised as an increasing problem. How common a problem is it? The short answer is that we don’t know. But the number of reports of resistance has been growing.
Most significant is the problem of resistance in the cyathostomins, or small redworms. Resistance among these worms to the benzimidazole group of wormers is widespread. Resistance to pyrantel is common in the USA, but less so elsewhere. And now there are signs of resistance emerging to the third major group of anthelmintics, the macrocyclic lactones (ivermectin and moxidectin).
But it is not only the small redworms that are developing resistance. Large redworms resistant to pyrantel have been recorded. And recently, large roundworms (Parascaris equorum) resistant to ivermectin have been identified in foals and young horses.
Unless we change our worming practices now, we risk serious problems of anthelmintic resistance. The traditional worming programs that involve dosing at set intervals are now seen as not the best way to control worms. By treating horses when it may not be necessary such regimes encourage the development of resistance. They are also expensive.
So what can we do? What is the best way to prevent problems due to heavy worm infections whilst limiting the development of resistance?
Concentrate treatment on wormy horses.
In a group of horses often only one or two individuals are responsible for contaminating the pasture. Some horses are naturally “wormy”. Others pass only a few worms eggs in their droppings, even if they are not being treated.
Experts recommend regularly assessing the level of infection. The most practical way to do this is to use faecal worm egg counts. By identifying the wormy horses, treatment can be concentrated on the ones that need it the most. Only treat horses with more than 200 eggs per gram of faeces.
Not treating the lightly infected horses ensures that the eggs deposited on the pasture come from untreated worms. This should slow the development of resistance.
Find out if your horse carries resistant worms.
At least every two or three years, check that the anthelmintics used are still effective. This can be done using faecal egg count reduction tests, in which the egg count is measured before and after treatment.
Use alternative methods of worm control wherever possible.
Picking the droppings twice a week in summer, or once a week in winter, will reduce pasture contamination. Use a low stocking density. Don't have too many horses on a small area.
Consider mixed grazing with cattle or sheep. They can “vacuum up “ the equine worm larvae. None of the important horse worms can survive in other species - so if ingested by cattle or sheep they are effectively removed from the pasture and can no longer infect horses.
An ideal worm control program depends on how you manage your horses. Ask your veterinarian for advice. You may well be able to save money. At the same time you can slow the development of resistance and prolong the useful life of the currently available wormers.
About the Author: Copyright 2007 by Mark Andrews / Equine Science Update. This article may be freely used by newsletters and web sites without permission as long as the copyright notice, links and contact information remain unchanged. Mark Andrews, an experienced equine veterinarian, is author of The Foaling Guide, (http://www.thefoalingguide.com) and publisher of Equine Science Update. For the latest information in equine science, subscribe to the free newsletter from Equine Science Update. (http://www.equinescienceupdate.co.uk)
Source: www.isnare.com
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Disclaimer: Equine training can be a hazardous activity which may subject the participants to possible serious injury. Keith Hosman, Josh Lyons, Patrick Benson, their associates and other trainers listed on this site will not assume any liability for your activities. Our newsletter, books and videos provide general information, instruction and techniques that may not be suitable for everyone. No warranty is given regarding the suitability of this information, the instructions, and techniques to you or other individuals acting under your instructions.
All Rights Reserved (TM) 2009, horsemanship101.com
No part of this website, including newsletter material and photos, may be reproduced without our express written permission.
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Horse Owning: Deworming Your Horse, advice for the horse owner provided by John Lyons Certified Trainer Keith Hosman
Bookmark horsemanship101.com for Horse-Keeping Tips
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